The Handyman's Pocket Book: The Water System.

It is advisable to understand how the water system is arranged in your house, so that in the event of trouble you can deal with it intelligently.  Two common arrangements are shown in Figs. 1 and 2.  

In Fig. 1 the main supplies the tap at the kitchen sink, and the cold-water cistern at the top of the house only.  All other cold-water supplies and the hot-water system are fed from the cistern.  In Fig. 2 the entire cold-water system is on the main.  The purpose of the cistern is solely to supply water for the hot-water system.  You should know which applies to your house, because the treatment in the case of a burst differs.  You can generally tell by the pressure, which is usually greater when water comes directly from the main.  In other houses which have been altered there may be a mixture of the two, additional taps having been taken at some time or other to other points from the cistern.

The two chief details to note in both systems is that there is an outside stop cock (usually beneath a small cover) which cuts off the supply of water before it reaches the house.  There is also another stop tap generally near the kitchen sink, though in older houses it may be outside under a cover or in a cellar.  The purpose of these cocks is to cut off all water from entering the house to enable repairs to be carried out, and to prevent flooding in the event of a burst.

It should be realized, however, that turning off the cock will not necessarily stop flooding immediately. It depends upon where the burst is.  In Figs. 1 and 2, for instance, a burst in the house in any of the pipes shown would be stopped at once by turning off the stop tap.  But these are only a few of the pipes in a house.  In Fig. 1 there is the rest of the cold system as well.  Still it is a first precaution because no more water can enter the house, and this leaves only what may be left in the cisterns and piping.  On the score, it is a good precaution to turn off the cock before leaving the house empty for any length of time. Then, in the event of a burst or a cracked tank only the water in the house can flood.  This can do enough damage, but it is limited.  In the event of the house being left in winter time it is a wise precaution to empty both hot- and cold-water systems as well as turn off the stop cock.

Taking the house in Fig. 1 we may now turn to the secondary cold-water system, that which is supplied from the cold-water cistern.  Incidentally the cold-water tank in older houses is generally in the loft.  The more modern idea is to put it above the hot-water tank to reduce risk of freezing.  It is shown in Fig. 3 by the open parallel lines.  One pipe goes from the bottom of the cold tank to the bottom of the hot tank, and a stop cock is generally provided so that water can be prevented from entering the hot-water system.  A second pipe, also with stop cock, leads, to the w.c. tank, bath, and hand basin.  This is a typical arrangement but there are variations, of course.

HOT-WATER SYSTEM.  This, shown in Fig. 3 by the shaded pipes, is common to both houses, Fig. 1 and 2.  The boiler has two pipes leading up to the hot-water tank, the top one being the "up" pipe through which the hot-water ascends.  It joins the hot-water tank at the top.  The bottom pipe is the "down" one, the cooler water descending into the boiler where it is heated, and circulating up to the hot tank again.

Note that a draining cock is provided in the boiler, this being at the lowest point, enabling the entire system to be emptied.  The pipe feeding the hot-water tank from the cold tank has already been noted.  From the top of the hot water tank a pipe ascends and its end is bent over the cold-water tank.  The idea is that if water should reach boiling point the steam can escape, and upon its condensing the water falls into the cold tank.  Leading from this pipe are the connections to the hot taps in the bathroom and kitchen.

We may note here that it is always worth while to lag the pipes of the hot-water system as well as the hot tank itself.  Partly it is a precaution against frost in the event of the standing empty, but, equally important, it is a great help in preventing loss of heat.

TAPS.  The chief thing that can go wrong with a tap is a constant drip, and this calls for replacement of the washer.  To do this it is necessary to partly dismantle the tap.  All taps are much the same, but some have a dome or hood fitted beneath the handle to improve the appearance.   This, however, is merely a cover, and once this is unscrewed the tap is much as any other kind.

Before doing anything, however, turn off the water.  If the tap is on the main turn the stop tap (B) in Fig. 3.  If it is on the secondary system supplied from the tank, however, it is necessary to turn the stop cock (D) adjoining the cold tank.  Sometimes the two pipes with their taps (C) and (D) are close together.  Make sure that you turn the right one.  To test, turn on the tap you have to attend to, then turn the stop tap.  The water will cease to flow if it is the right one it may take a second or two to cease because the water in the pipe has to drain away.

Unscrew the hood - it will pass well up the spindle.  If it is difficult to turn you may have to use a stillson or some similar wrench as there is no flat surface over which a spanner can be tightened.  As in all similar operations to a tap, grip the latter firmly so that no unnecessary strain is thrown upon the joint.  It is always a help to grip the spanner or wrench with the left hand at the tap whilst levering the handle with the right.

Raising the hood will reveal the large nut A.Fig. 4.  Unscrewing this will enable the whole of the top portion to be lifted away as at X.  It will probably be found that the washer is worn out and it is only necessary to undo the retaining nut at the bottom and replace the washer.  In cold-water taps the entire jumper can be lifted away, though it is sometimes held by a small grub screw which passes through the thread.  Undoing this will release it.  A special rounded from of washer is also available.  This is mounted on a metal jumper and can be used to replace the existing one.  It is not advisable to fit this, however, on a tap supplied from a storage tank unless it can be held by a grub screw because, after being screwed down, the water pressure may not be sufficient to lift it.  To replace the parts work in the reverse order to that just given.  In the case of a hot-water tap use the special type of washer made for the purpose.

It may be that, instead of a drip, the water oozes out at the hood, or at the small nut beneath the handle.  This is due to a fault in the stuffing box.  The latter is beneath the small gland immediately below the handle, and in the case of a tap with a hood it is necessary to remove the latter entirely.  This is done by withdrawing the small grub screw and lifting off the handle (it invariably fits on a square).  This enables the hood to be taken right off, revealing the gland.  Sometimes tightening the gland will put the trouble right.

The leak can take place only when the tap is "on," so turn the tap and notice whether water escapes past the gland.  If it still does remove the gland entirely and pick out the old packing with a pointed tool.  Cover a short length of new string with lard or tallow and, wrapping it around the spindle, press it down into the stuffing box.  The gland can then be replaced.  Do not tighten it too much or the tap will be hard to turn.  You need only turn it enough to stop leakage.

W.C. CISTERN.  One of the troubles that sometimes occurs is a constant drip from the overflow pipe, and may be caused by too high a water level.  It is easily corrected by bending down the arm which holds the ball.  This will close the valve before the water level reaches the overflow pipe.  The water should rise and remain at about 1 in. below the latter.

Another cause of dripping is that the washer is worn out.  The plunger in the valve may be working properly but the worn washer allows water to pass and so the water level is raised.  To replace the washer it is necessary to take out the valve.  Turn off the water and empty the cistern.  The arm to which the ball is attached is pivoted, and the cotter pin must be withdrawn.  The arm can then be drawn free and the plunger removed.  Some plungers work horizontally, others vertically.  The plunger has a screwed-on cap which holds the washer, and this must be taken off (see Fig. 6).  A screwdriver held in the slot will hold it whilst the cap is gripped with pliers.  The old washer is replaced and the whole re-assembled.  Make sure that the plunger moves freely within the valve.  If it should stick it may remain closed and not allow the cistern to fill.  Sometimes a deposit on it causes it to stick, and sometimes hard gripping with pliers may leave ridges of metal which cause sticking.  After slight filing to remove roughness cover with tallow or other grease to lubricate.

If water pours from the overflow pipe the trouble is generally due to the ball having become punctured so that it drops, allowing water to continue to enter.  The remedy is to fit a new ball of the same size as the old.  Disconnect the arm at the valve, and unscrew the ball.  After fitting the new one turn on the water and test the operation to see that the correct water level is reached.

Bursts

Let us now take one or two typical leakages.

COLD-WATER CISTERN.  Suppose this begins to leak.  It is usually the result of corrosion gradually eating through the metal, and as a rule shows itself in water dripping through the ceiling.  Whether you are on the system in Fig. 1 or Fig. 2 the procedure is the same.  Turn off the inside stop tap B, or, if there isn't one, the outside stop cock A.  No more water can then go into the tank.  If you cannot find the key to turn off pull up the ball to the top of the tank and tie it to a piece of wood passed across the top of the tank as in Fig. 7, or to a beam above.  There are, however, many gallons still in the tank, and you can help to empty these away by turning on all cold-water taps which are fed from the cistern.  In Fig. 3, for instance, the cold bath tap and the cold basin tap can be turned on, and the w.c. plug pulled.  This will quickly empty the tank.  The hot-water taps can also be turned on because the hot tank is supplied by the cold tank.

If all your cold water taps are on the main, however (Fig. 2), the only way of emptying the tank is to turn on all hot-water taps, because the sole outlet from the cold tank is to the hot tank.  You thus empty the cold tank via the hot.  When empty, an new tank must be fitted.  It is of no use to tinker at the old one because if there is one hole due to corrosion there are probably many others nearly through.

If a cistern, hot or cold, show rust spots at the outside it is a sign of danger, even though there is no actual leak.  It shows that corrosion has begun, and a new tank should be fitted.

HOT-WATER TANK.  When the burst is in the hot tank you have first to stop any more water from entering it.  You do this by turning the stop tap C in Fig. 3.  If there is no tap you will have to stop the outlet from the cold-water tank, pressing in a tapered piece of wood wrapped around with rag.  If this is not practicable tie up the ball arm at the cold-water tank, and turn on all cold water taps.

You have now to empty the hot-water tank as quickly as possible.  It is useless to turn on the hot-water taps because the outlet is at the top of the hot-water tank or above it, so that although water would soon cease to run at the taps the tank would still be full.  The only way is to drain water away from the boiler at the draining cock in Fig. 3.  The easiest way is to connect a piece of rubber hose pipe to the cock and pass the free end out of the door so that water flows away outside.  Otherwise you will have to use a basin, but it is a long job, most tanks being of 25 gallons capacity.  When empty, it is necessary to have a new tank fitted.

BOILER LEAK.  Sometimes a leak in the boiler develops, or one of the holding nuts becomes corroded.  The procedure is much as that outlined for the hot-water tank.  Turn off the cock C to stop further water entering the tank, and drain the system from the draining cock in the boiler.

Frost

To prevent trouble is better than having to cure it.  There are various things that will help, and lagging the pipes is one of the most important.  Water expands on freezing, and if ice plugs form in the pipe as in Fig. 8 (A), expansion cannot take place along the pipe.  The water between the plugs therefore expands in the restricted space as it freezes, and the pipe itself also has to expand at this point, probably resulting in a split.  This split only becomes apparent when the pipe thaws and water leaks out.  Fig. 8 (B and C) shows typical parts of the house where this process is likely to occur.

LAGGING.  Any pipes in these, or other positions vulnerable to cold should be lagged with felt, which is obtainable in strips ready for use.  It should be bound round the pipe as shown in Fig. 9 and the whole of the vulnerable area covered.  If any spot proves awkward to get at, it is well worth going to extra trouble in order to cover the pipe completely.  It is of little use fixing the lagging in front of the pipe only, leaving the rear unprotected.  When lagging outside waste pipes, the lagging itself should be covered with roofing felt to keep it dry.  

For lagging in the loft and other spots where appearance is unimportant, straw or old sacking may be used.  Fig. 10  shows how the straw is prepared by twisting on an iron hook or bent iron rod.  This process really needs two people, the straw being looped round the hook as at A.  The hook is then twisted by one person, whilst the other feeds the straw on it as at B, gradually forming a continuous twisted length, which may be used for lagging in the same way as felt strips.

THE COLD-WATER CISTERN.  If this is in the loft, or any exposed position, it should be boxed in as in Fig. 11, the space between the cistern and boxing being filled with sawdust, slag wool. or other insulating material.  Always lag the feed and outlet pipes, particularly where they pass through the casing, as they are more likely to freeze than the cistern itself.  Note that the lid should have a hole in it for the overflow pipe from the hot tank.

THE W.C.  A cracked lavatory pan is an expensive business, and it is well worth taking preventive measures here.  An oil-stove or lamp should be placed close to the pan during a cold spell, particularly in an outside lavatory.  As an extra precaution, a small lamp may be hung just below the cistern.

The following points are also worth mention:

• Turn off all taps firmly to prevent water dripping down waste pipes.
• Exclude draughts where possible.
• If leaving the house empty in winter time for more than twenty-four hours, turn off the main tap and drain all pipes by leaving sink taps on.
• In the case of the hot-water system drain at the boiler cock (see Fig. 3).
• Flush the w.c. and leave a handful of salt in the pan to prevent freezing.

FIRST AID MEASURES.  If freezing occurs, despite precautions, the pipes affected should be thawed out carefully.  It is safest to start at the tap, and using the method shown in Fig. 12 work gradually along the pipe.  A small oil lamp may be used as an alternative to hot water poured on cloths over the pipes.

If the waste pipe of a sink or bath freezes, first try putting salt down it, and if this fails, hot water.  If the latter is ineffective, work on the same pipe outside the house, using the cloth and hot water method, or wrap newspapers round the pipe and set them alight.

DEALING WITH A BURST.  If thawing out reveals a burst supply pipe, the first step is to cut off the supply to that particular pipe at the nearest point to the burst.  In the case of a burst in the pipe which supplies the water cistern, the obvious step is to turn off the main supply tap.  Incidentally, if this is outside beneath a manhole cover, it is well worth keeping the edge of the cover sprinkled with salt in cold weather, otherwise it may freeze solidly in position.

If the burst is on any pipe between the cistern and the various taps in the house, the flow from the cistern must be stopped as soon as possible.  If there is no tap controlling this, the pipe should be plugged where it leads out of the cistern.  This can generally be done by wrapping a piece of cloth round a suitable cork or wood plug, and pressing it firmly into the opening of the pipe inside the cistern.  Notes on stopping the flow at pipes and tanks have already been given.

PLUGGING THE BURST.  This is necessarily only a temporary measure, a piece of rag being plugged into the cracked pipe, then wound firmly round.  It also relieves the pressure on the burst it all sink taps on the affected pipe are turned on.

REFILLING TANKS.  There is a risk when refilling a hot-water tank that an air lock may develop.  The best way of avoiding this is to fill from the bottom.  A piece of hose pipe is taken from the kitchen cold water tap (or the nearest tap on the main) and the other end connected to the draining cock on the boiler.  The water is turned on and allowed to flow until water begins to flow from the hot water tap (the latter should be left on).

This cannot be done in the cold-water tank, and the water is turned on in the ordinary way.  If a lock occurs in, say the pipe to the bathroom, it can be remedied by connecting the hot and cold taps with a length of hose pipe and turning both on.  Water from the hot tap will flow up the cold pipe for a considerable way and may shift the air lock.  By suddenly removing the hose the change of pressure may carry the air lock down.