The Handyman's Pocket Book: Sash Window Repairs

Replacing Sash Cords

REMOVING SASHES.  To dismantle a window for replacing cords, etc., first remove the long front retaining beads on the room side.  This is done with a thin chisel inserted in the quirk of the bead and gently prised outwards, starting from the centre and working out each way.  This will spring the bead, bow fashion, and will release the pressure on the mitres and allow the fixing brads to bend slightly so that the bead can be carefully withdrawn.  Note the position of each bead as taken out.

Lift out the front sash on one side and with a screwdriver prise out the clout nails securing the cord, taking care to hold the cord so that the weight does not pull it back over the pulley.  Tie a loose knot in the cord and let the cord run gently up to the pulley where it will be out of the way.  Treat the other side similarly and take the front sash away.

Now remove the parting beads which are fitted between back and front sashes.  They are housed in a groove.  These beads are best removed by gripping with pincers carefully and gently pulling, at the same time tapping the frame with the hammer when the beads will generally come away without damage.  The section in Fig. 1 shows the beads.

Remove the back sash similarly to the other, and leave the frame clear.  On any but the smallest sashes do not attempt this single handed unless you are experienced.  Also keep the room door closed, as the air current can easily overpower you.  Examine all cords and remove any that are not in first-class condition by untying the loose knot and lowering the weight into the weight run of the frame.

At the lower ends of the window frame, pockets are formed for access to the weights.  These pockets should be removed with a thin chisel carefully levered outwards.  They are not fixed other than by the formation of the joints, which is sufficient to hold them.  Note the position of each when removing.  Lift out the front weight and place aside.  A thin wood strip or parting piece will be noticed which can be gently pulled over to the front when the back weight can also be pulled out if necessary for cording.  Remove all bad cords from the weights, noting how the cord is knotted and tucked into the weight eye.

REPLACING THE CORD.  Sash cord is sold in knots, a knot sufficing for four to six average sash lines.  It is obtainable in various sizes and qualities.  The size is governed by the groove in the pulley wheel.  Use the largest dimension that will reeve nicely in the groove, and always use the best quality.  See that the pulleys are working freely and well lubricated.  Most broken cords are caused by badly maintained pulleys.  The weights are weighted to balance each sash.  When removing care should be taken not to mix them.

Whilst the sash frames are removed they should be overhauled.  All joints should be cramped up tight and re-wedged; also any tenon ends that stand proud of the stiles should be levelled down with a smoothing plane, as this assists the easy running of the sash.  Any joints that are weak should be reinforced with metal angle plates, let in flush and screwed on the face of the sash as in Fig. 2.  Before using new cord it should be stretched, otherwise allowance must be made when fitting to prevent the weights touching bottom when the window is operated.

It will be noticed that the cord-ends on the sash are secured in a groove by two or more clout-headed nails, and are not fixed at the top of the sash.  This is to allow clearance for the cords to operate over the pulleys without hindrance when closing the sashes.  (See Fig. 3.)

THE MOUSE.  To enable the new cord to be fitted a "mouse" is necessary.  It can be made as in Fig. 4 from a piece of lead hammered around the end of a length of fine string.  It must be sufficiently small to pass through the pulley groove.  At a pinch a bent nail can be used, the string being tied around the head, but it is not so satisfactory because it will not pass through the opening so easily, and may drop away from the string.  The object of the mouse is to enable the cord to be pulled over the pulley and drawn out at the pocket at the bottom.

Starting with the top sash, tie the string of the mouse to the end of the cord, and pass the weight over the pulley, allowing it to drop by its own weight inside the box as at A, Fig. 5.  It can then be withdrawn at the pocket, though care must be taken not to get it twisted around the wood parting piece. Pull the string and with it the cord right out, as at B, Fig. 5.

WEIGHTS.  Reeve the cord through the eye of the weight and tie a knot, feeding the tail of the knot into the back eye of the weight, and at the same time easing the knot home flush into the weight pocket with the hammer (see Fig. 6).  Replace the weight, placing the top in the frame first and lowering.  Pull up the weight to its full extent and strain.  Cut off cord to a suitable length, tie a loose knot in the cord.  The weights should hang about 2 in. short of the bottom of the weight run.  Put a pencil mark on the main framework level withe bottom of the cord groove in the sash, and cut the cord 2 in. short of this.

Having fixed the cords (see Fig. 3) the sashes can be replaced, help generally being necessary unless one is fairly adept in the job.  Place one side of the back sash in its running position, pull down the opposite side cord and secure to the sash with clout head nails, 1 in. being sufficient.  Lift out the sash, reverse the position and fit the other cord in the same manner.  Rub a little paraffin wax on the running edges and replace sash into its seating.  Push up to its full extent to test the length of cord, and, if all is correct, replace the parting beads in the same order as removed.

Treat the front sash in a similar manner, and replace the front retaining beads, removing any surplus paint that may have collected on the running edges.  Overhaul the sash fastener, removing any surplus paint or corrosion, oil and adjust to a secure fit without rattle in the sashes.  If care has been taken to remove any burrs on the pulley wheel flanges, and the bearings are nicely lubricated, the window should now give trouble-free service for a long period.  A waxed impregnated cord on the market appears to be promising and is worth a trial.

CASEMENT SASHES.  A common complaint with this class of sash is sagging.  This happens chiefly because there is little width of shoulder to the rails and often no cross-bars.  To repair it is necessary to remove the glass.  Make good the joints and cramp up.  When replacing the glass small wedges of wood must be fitted in the rebates to make the glass a close fit so that no movement can take place after the sash is puttied.  The glass should be a close fit to the rebates.

Where the sash has cross-bars it may be that joints have shrunk open.  These must be pulled up close and pegged or, if the joint is weak, secured with an angle plate screwed on the face of the sash.  When this has been done the sash will probably need refitting and adjusting on the hinges.  The cockspur fasteners may need attention.  Adjust these so that they pull up to a close joint on the frame, the striking plate being the best and easiest adjustment in this case.

All house fittings need periodic attention.  So many of the smaller troubles are caused by lack of a little oil on the working parts.  Hinges, door locks and bolts, catches and so on all work the better of lubrication, and last much longer.

ROT IN WINDOW FRAMES.  This trouble is mostly to be found in sills and chiefly at the hip joint of bay windows where shrinkage occurs.  If the joint is open fit wood slivers and secure with water-proof glue.  It is a well-constructed joint with tongue, fill the open joint with red-lead stopping.  In any case the damage is caused by the ingress of water, and the golden rule is to fill the joint as soon as it opens.