The Handyman's Pocket Book: Sharpening Tools.

Chisels and plane cutters when new are ground but require to be given a keen edge on an oilstone.  Pour a few drops of oil on to the stone and hold the chisel so that the bevel lies flat on it.  Raise the handle slightly so that the edge is in contact with the stone and rub back and forth.  To tell when the tool is sharp draw the thumb across the edge at the back.  A burr or roughness should be turned up, and this is an indication that it is sharp.  Turn the chisel the other way, holding it flat on the stone and rub once or twice to turn back the burr.  Drawing the edge across the corner of a piece of wood will remove the burr, and it can then be finally touched up by giving a few rubs on each side on the stone.  Remember that the flat side of the chisel (that without the bevel) must be held flat.  Work the chisel about on various parts of the stone so that the wear is equalized.  This applies specially to narrow chisels.  Plane cutters are sharpened in the same way.  After several sharpenings the sharpened bevel will become wide so that it takes longer to sharpen.  The tool should then be ground on a wet grindstone.

When sharpening a pen-knife hold the blade flat on the stone, then when rubbing put pressure towards the edge so that the steel towards the edge is removed chiefly.  In the final sharpening reverse the knife after each stroke and move it with the edge foremost.  In this way the burr is removed.

Saws should be taken to a professional sharpener unless you have had experience in the work.  You may easily do more harm than good, and the cost of putting right a badly sharpened saw is more than any saving you may have effected by attempting it yourself.

Boring bits are sharpened with a fine small file.  Bits having a thread, such as the twist or auger bit need a file with a safe edge.  Stick the point of the bit into a block of wood to steady it and work the file on the cutters at the side away from the thread.  The nickers are sharpened on the inside only.

Gouges which have the bevel on the outside can be sharpened on the oilstone, the bevel being laid on the stone and the tool moved with a rocking motion.  Gouges having the bevel inside require an oilstone slip with rounded edge.  This is worked back and forth on the bevel.  Any burr is turned back and forth once or twice, the gouge being turned slowly as it is moved.

Incidentally, it you buy an oilstone without a case, make one straightway.  A stone breaks easily and seldom survives a fall.

To hone a razor a very fine-grade oilstone is essential.  Pour on a few drops of oil, and, holding the razor flat, draw it diagonally over the surface, edge foremost.  Reverse it, turning it on its back, and give the other side a single stroke in the same way, edge first.  As a rule a couple of dozen strokes will restore the edge, unless it is in really bad condition.  There is no point in continuing unnecessarily - in fact, there is a disadvantage in that a burr may be formed, though the rubbing alternately one side then the other largely reduces the risk of this.

The professional sharpens scissors on a fine grindstone, the screw-rivet being withdrawn to allow the parts to be separated.  However, a fine file can be used.  Retain the same bevel and remove any burr as it is formed.  Make sure that the edges touch throughout the stroke and fit a new screw, finally burring over the end to prevent withdrawal.