ESTIMATING QUANTITIES. The first point is to calculate the number of rolls required for the room, and this is done by first ascertaining the number of lengths that can be obtained from one roll. As a rule it is safe to assume that for heights up to 8 ft. each roll will yield four lengths, this allowing for waste and matching patten. Heights of 8 to 10 ft. cut only three lengths, and for over 10 ft. it is safe to reckon on two lengths only. Small spaces above doors and windows, etc., are ignored as odd pieces can invariably be used for them, but it is usual to reckon in the space above the fireplace as running the full length.
As an example take the room of which a plan is given in Fig. 1. Count up the total length around the walls in inches, taking out the window and door, but including the space above the mantlepiece and the projection of the breast. It comes to 486. Divide by 21 to get the number of lengths (say 24) and divide this by 4 (assuming the height to be 8 ft. or less) giving 6, this being the number of rolls needed.
It must be realized, however, that papers with large pattern may involve considerable waste in matching or in centreing. For instance, over a prominent feature such as a low mantlepiece it would be desirable to centre a large pattern, and this might easily involve waste. If there is any doubt it is advisable to order an extra roll.
PREPARATION. Although it is possible to lay paper over existing paper if the latter is in good condition, there is a risk that the whole thing will eventually peel away. In any case it is difficult to get a really neat finish. The better plan is to strip off the old paper and start afresh. To do this damp the paper thoroughly and peel it away. Obstinate parts need the use of the scraper. Any defects should then be made good by raking out and filling with Keene's cement. If possible undercut such parts as cracks so that the filling has a dovetail grip, and damp the work with a brush, otherwise the cement will not adhere properly. Rub down when hard, and go over the whole surface with size to reduce the suction of the plaster. Ceilings in particular should be sized to give the paste good adhesion.
TOOLS. Fig. 2 shows the main tools required for paper-hanging. In addition a trestle table on which papers can be cut and pasted is needed, and a pair of steps. To trim the edges either the scissors will have to be used, or one of the small appliances fitted with cutting wheel and slot which engages the edge. Alternatively, the paper can usually be trimmed at the shop at small cost. The old method was for the paper-hanger to sit on a chair with the legs held well out. The roll of paper rested on his feet, and he re-rolled the paper with his left hand as he cut with his right.
Cutting the paper into lengths is the next job, and here it is necessary to consider the pattern. Some papers match horizontally; others are known as "drop" pattern, in which the pattern matches at a different level on one side compared with the other. In some cases it pays to cut alternate rolls in different positions. However, in plain papers there is no match, and in small patterns there is not much variation - not more than the few inches of waste will cover. However, make sure of this first so that there is ample to cover adjustment in height.
PASTING. Having cut the lengths place them face side downwards at the back of the table, piled one above the other, all facing in the same direction, and with the right-hand end slightly overhanging the top. Start with the top papers about 2 in. away from the front of the board and paste the back edge. Then draw it to the front so that it overlaps the edge as in Fig. 3. Apply the paste evenly, working out towards the edges so that there is no tendency for the paste to work beneath. The brush can be taken straight across the edge. At the back it will go on to the remaining pile of papers, and at the right-hand end and front it goes over the edge without touching the table beneath so that there is no danger of soiling the front of the paper. Incidentally, make sure that the table top is clean and dry before placing papers upon it.
Having pasted the area of the table top, fold the right-hand end over, keeping the edges level, and draw the paper to the right so that it hangs down, so drawing the unpasted portion over the top. Let the left-hand end overlap the table top slightly, and continue the pasting. Fold over the left-hand end as at A, Fig. 3, and the paper is then ready for hanging. Note that the extreme ends of the paper stand up slightly.
HANGING THE PAPER. It is essential that the paper is hung vertically, and the only safe plan is to use a plumb-bob. As a rule papers are hung at each side of the window and worked round from each side away from the light. A meeting place is arranged in an inconspicuous place, a dark corner if possible, where a difference in matching is inevitable. An exception to this is when a bold pattern has to be centred over a mantlepiece. Then a centre line is drawn with the plumb-bob, and the paper worked each way from it.
Fig. 4 shows how the paper is lifted. Start at the top, and, holding one corner against the plumb-line, press lightly to the wall, and bring the other corner to the wall, keeping the edge of the paper in line with the line. Lower the paper so that a greater area touches the wall, and brush it so that there is sufficient on the wall to support the weight. When satisfied that it is in line brush from the centre outwards and pull out the lower fold. It is usual to smooth the top half and trim the top waste before dealing with the remainder. If at the first attempt the paper is not in alignment with the line pull it away from the wall and replace before unfolding the bulk. Brush the entire area from the centre outwards. To trim the two ends to length, press the paper into the angle, and run the point of the scissors along the angle to make an indentation, as in Fig. 5. Hold waste from frieze rail with left hand. Pull the paper away from the wall, cut away the surplus, and brush back.
ANGLES. Angles are something of a difficulty, and usually the best plan is to cut a strip about 0.5 in. wider than the space between the last piece hung and the corner. This gives a slight overlap to turn the corner and allows for any inaccuracy in the wall. The strip can be cut on the board after being pasted and folded as shown in Fig. 6. The edges of the paper must be exactly in line, and the front brought level with the edge of the table. This enables the required width to be indented with the scissors. The cut is then taken carefully along the line.
It is not advisable to turn an outer angle with the paper in a single width, except for a 0.5 in. turn. In every case this turn is lapped by the following piece. Interior angles are much more difficult and it is seldom possible to give more than the 0.5. in. overlap already mentioned.
If it is necessary to roll the joints of flat papers do this soon after hanging. If the paper inclines to become glossy put a strip of spare paper over the joint first and roll over this. Embossed papers should never be rolled.
CEILINGS. Ceilings are rather more difficult to tackle because of the awkward posture one has to adopt, and because the paper tends to fall away more easily. Furthermore a plank on trestles is necessary. The initial preparation is much the same as for walls, but the paper after being pasted is folded differently. Fig. 7 shows the idea.
A straight line should be put in with chalk line, either coloured chalk or charcoal being used. Work away from the light. Have an inch or two allowance at the ends except where a patterned paper is used. Sufficient allowance for matching will then have to be made.
To lift the paper put a spare roll of wallpaper beneath the folds, as in Fig. 8, and carry with the left hand. Open out the paper slightly with the right hand and press to the ceiling in line with the chalked line and with the end overlapping the corner an inch or so. The paper in the left hand should not touch the ceiling. When satisfied that the edge is in line, smooth out with the brush, working from the centre outwards. Work gradually across the ceiling, brushing out as you go. Trim the ends as explained for wallpapering. It will be realized that when a room is being prepared throughout the ceiling is dealt with first.
PASTE. Nowadays paste is generally obtained in the form of a proprietary preparation. Those who prefer to make their own can use the following. Put about 2 lb. baking flour in a bucket and add cold water to give a thick batter. Beat up thoroughly, getting rid of all lumps. Allow to stand for about half an hour then pour on boiling water to form a thick paste. Pour on a little cold water, and leave to become cool. If necessary it can be then thinned out more with water.
An essential feature of paper-hanging is cleanliness. Tools should be kept dry and clean; also the hands. If any paste gets on to the surrounding paintwork wipe clean straightway. It is a good idea to keep a clean duster handy in the pocket.
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